The first event of my 2014 surfing season is already over and done. I spent the last week in Sydney competing in the Australian Open of Surfing at Manly beach. It just flew by… The contest finished this afternoon and I am already on a plane home this evening. Trying to soak in as much time with my family before I’m on the road for the next few months. I only have five days at home before I have to get back on a plane for Australia but to me it’s totally worth it.
The Australian Open was epic. The vibe was a lot more mellow and family oriented compared to the US Open. Hurley did a great job with everything. From the surfing to the music and art… there was always something fun going on and good people to hang out with. I was really impressed with the bands that played. I’d never heard of them before but they totally rocked it! One afternoon I got to surf and listen to the concert at the same time. It was pretty rad!
As for the contest, it went well! It was weird being in a jersey again after five months off. Took me a little while to shake off the nerves and get back into the swing of things. It’s definitely a shift in mindset from just free-surfing to competing and focusing on heat strategy. It felt really good tho, to have the contest adrenaline pumping again. Stoked to end up making the finals against good friend and fellow Hawaiian, Alessa Quizon. We grew up together surfing Kewalos and NSSA so it was pretty cool that it was just me and her in the lineup together. It was a fun final. Enough waves for the both of us to perform which was nice. With the love and support from my Hurley family and team back home I was able to start my year off with a win Yew!
Feels good to be back. I am so excited about the rest of the year. If you haven’t heard already another event has recently been added at Honolua Bay, Maui in November for the women. It’s kind of a big deal since we haven’t competed in Hawaii in four years! Thank you to everyone who is making this happen for us and for believing in our potential. See you at Snapper!!
Hello Web World!
I finished putting together my new year’s resolutions and apart of my list is to write a journal entry at least once every two weeks. I’ve been slacking a bit so I am going to try my best to be more on top of things.
Just spent the last five days in Mexico surfing a fun barreling beach break. I had the best time surfing and hanging out with some awesome people. It was great to have my dad and Luke there. I was really proud watching them both get barreled and seeing how stoked they were. Most days we surfed until noon, then cruised for the rest of the afternoon. Luke tied up an old car tire to the balcony and we had a blast playing two on two basketball. Luke and I were of course the winning team;) It was a another unforgettable trip and one that I learned a lot. Thank you to everyone who made the trip so special!
I am now home for a week before heading to Sydney for Hurley’s Australian Open of Surfing at Manly beach. It’ll be my first time to the event so I am really excited to see the setup and all the action. If it is anything like the US Open it’s gonna be crazy awesome! Then it’s home for a short regroup before the start of the season at Snapper Rocks on the Gold Coast of Australia. Can’t believe how quickly time has gone by. It’s been a good break but I am really looking forward to putting on a jersey again. We’ve got two amazing venues added to our tour this year, Fiji and Trestles, and am beyond stoked to have the opportunity to be in those lineups with only two other girls out. So rad!
Hope everyone is enjoying the new year so far and catching some fun waves:) Lots of love your way today and everyday…
Happy New Year everyone! So excited for all the fun adventures that 2014 has in store. The adventures have already begun! Spent the first week of January with my dad and little sister in Fiji. It was such an epic week of surfing, exploring and just being together. Here are a few cool photos from our trip! Thanks Fiji Surf Co. for an unforgettable time:) Xx,
Pictures by Stuart Johnson
Good morning! Happy hump day! We are now half way thru the week, half way closer to the weekend and watching the final day of the Pipe Master and who wins the world title. I am so excited! Mick or Kelly? Who are you rooting for? With a solid, possibly 8-10 foot swell, it should be quite a showdown.
How was everyone’s Thanksgiving? I, as always, ate way too much food but it was so delicious. My favorite was my Uncle’s homemade pumpkin pie. To. Die. For. I enjoyed spending time with my family and relaxing most of the day. I am so extremely thankful for the life that I live, the people I love and all the amazing opportunities and unforgettable memories I made this year. Couldn’t ask for anything more:)
The day after Thanksgiving a huge swell hit the north shore so Dad, Luke and I decided to paddle out to Waimea for our first time. It was a bit intimidating driving around the corner and seeing the bay light up with a massive 15-20 ft set. I almost refused to paddle out but my dad convinced me that we were just going to sit in the channel and watch… where it was safe. I sat in the middle of the channel for a good half hour before I slowly inched closer and eventually ended up in the lineup and giving it a shot. Of course I couldn’t just sit there. I’m not going to lie… my waves were pretty small but I was beyond stoked that I even caught one and survived. Just being out there was a powerful and humbling experience. I have so much respect for the ocean and all the people who attempt to tame her.
Surferpoll went down at Turtle Bay this past friday. It’s a fun night for all the surfers to get dressed up and mingle together in the same room. Surfer magazine celebrates the performances of the year and acknowledges their fan’s favorite surfers. I was stoked that I made the top five for women… However I hope one day there is an opportunity for ten women to be voted for instead of just five because there are more women than ever charging big waves, getting barreled and putting on mind blowing performances.
That”s about it. Just getting in the Christmas spirit and decorated our tree last night. Looking forward to finishing off this year at home with family and friends and then getting ready for a new year! Sending lots of love your way today and every day.