Ok… so I already broke my new year’s resolution. It’s been a little over a month since I last journaled. Oh man:( It’s okay tho… Nobody’s perfect right?
So a lot has happened since my last update from the Gold Coast. After the contest finished, I went home for a week and spent time with my amazing family. Watched a couple of my sister’s water polo games, had a few lunch dates with mom, went to high tea with my grandma, snuggled with Tuff, enjoyed my nana and papa’s cooking and company and played UNO with the Untermanns. I also slept a lot! Didn’t do much surfing because it was quite windy but it was nice just to relax and soak in home.
I then flew to Bali for World Water Day, March 22nd. It was an unforgettable experience. We went to one of the poorest villages in the mountains, distributed water filtration systems and taught the people how to use them. It was overwhelming to see how they lived. No electricity or clean running water. Their houses were falling apart, clothes were dirty, and the whole place smelt of manure. It was hard to see but it definitely made me appreciate the simple luxuries I have access to everyday. It was so rewarding to see the smiles on their faces as we drove away. Hopefully the filters will help prevent water born illnesses and make life a little bit better for them.
The surf in Bali was pretty small but we found a couple waves to wiggle on. We went to the Bali Safari and pet a baby lion cub…that was a definite highlight! Visited the famous Uluwatu monkey temple and witnessed the evening feeding frenzy, rented mopeds and defied death on the crazy roads, ate amazing food and got a little fat and lastly went to an Xavier Rudd concert and experienced hippy life for the night. Epic trip overall:)
Fast forward to the present… Im in Western Australia. The Margaret River Drug Aware Pro finished four days ago and I am stoked that I was able to take home the win Since then just been finding silly ways to have fun and soak in the rest of our time in this beautiful place. Been surfing along the coast and basket balling a bunch. I even beat all the boys in HORSE the other day. I’m quite proud. We leave tomorrow night for Bells! I am really excited for the next leg of our journey. Crossing my fingers we get some fun waves.
Hello from home! Happy to be back for a few days, see my family, do a couple loads of laundry, take my dog to the beach and just relax. I leave again next Wednesday night to spend World Water Day in Bali before heading to West Oz for the next contest. I am really excited about working with Hurley H2O and Waves for Water to bring clean water to some of the communities there. I had the honor of meeting the founder of Waves for Water, Jon Rose, during the Roxy Pro last week. He is an amazing guy with a big heart and passion to help people. His story is truly inspiring and I can’t wait to be apart of one of his projects.
Speaking of last week and the Roxy Pro, it kind of came to an anticlimactic finish for myself. After waiting a week to surf the semis after the quarters…all the anticipation, nerves and excitement…I ended up with a third place finish to Stephanie Gilmore. I can’t say that I wasn’t disappointed but it’s not a bad result to start with. Overall I had a great time surfing and competing the whole event and it was an exciting start to an incredible season for all the women. It was the best Snapper/ Superbank I have surfed in years. I surfed until I had to head to the airport. The waves were absolutely perfect. Barrel after barrel after barrel. Every surfer’s dream. It really felt like mother nature was rejoicing and celebrating with us. She just kept giving. The waves wouldn’t stop. Every person had the best session and smiles that you couldn’t wipe off:)
The first event of my 2014 surfing season is already over and done. I spent the last week in Sydney competing in the Australian Open of Surfing at Manly beach. It just flew by… The contest finished this afternoon and I am already on a plane home this evening. Trying to soak in as much time with my family before I’m on the road for the next few months. I only have five days at home before I have to get back on a plane for Australia but to me it’s totally worth it.
The Australian Open was epic. The vibe was a lot more mellow and family oriented compared to the US Open. Hurley did a great job with everything. From the surfing to the music and art… there was always something fun going on and good people to hang out with. I was really impressed with the bands that played. I’d never heard of them before but they totally rocked it! One afternoon I got to surf and listen to the concert at the same time. It was pretty rad!
As for the contest, it went well! It was weird being in a jersey again after five months off. Took me a little while to shake off the nerves and get back into the swing of things. It’s definitely a shift in mindset from just free-surfing to competing and focusing on heat strategy. It felt really good tho, to have the contest adrenaline pumping again. Stoked to end up making the finals against good friend and fellow Hawaiian, Alessa Quizon. We grew up together surfing Kewalos and NSSA so it was pretty cool that it was just me and her in the lineup together. It was a fun final. Enough waves for the both of us to perform which was nice. With the love and support from my Hurley family and team back home I was able to start my year off with a win Yew!
Feels good to be back. I am so excited about the rest of the year. If you haven’t heard already another event has recently been added at Honolua Bay, Maui in November for the women. It’s kind of a big deal since we haven’t competed in Hawaii in four years! Thank you to everyone who is making this happen for us and for believing in our potential. See you at Snapper!!
Hello Web World!
I finished putting together my new year’s resolutions and apart of my list is to write a journal entry at least once every two weeks. I’ve been slacking a bit so I am going to try my best to be more on top of things.
Just spent the last five days in Mexico surfing a fun barreling beach break. I had the best time surfing and hanging out with some awesome people. It was great to have my dad and Luke there. I was really proud watching them both get barreled and seeing how stoked they were. Most days we surfed until noon, then cruised for the rest of the afternoon. Luke tied up an old car tire to the balcony and we had a blast playing two on two basketball. Luke and I were of course the winning team;) It was a another unforgettable trip and one that I learned a lot. Thank you to everyone who made the trip so special!
I am now home for a week before heading to Sydney for Hurley’s Australian Open of Surfing at Manly beach. It’ll be my first time to the event so I am really excited to see the setup and all the action. If it is anything like the US Open it’s gonna be crazy awesome! Then it’s home for a short regroup before the start of the season at Snapper Rocks on the Gold Coast of Australia. Can’t believe how quickly time has gone by. It’s been a good break but I am really looking forward to putting on a jersey again. We’ve got two amazing venues added to our tour this year, Fiji and Trestles, and am beyond stoked to have the opportunity to be in those lineups with only two other girls out. So rad!
Hope everyone is enjoying the new year so far and catching some fun waves:) Lots of love your way today and everyday…