Archive for January, 2010

Just saw Avatar in 3D with one of my besties, Matt!!! The movie was sickkkkk! After we went to Wahoos for lunch. Yummy!

When we pulled up to the spot this morning it was stormy and the surf was monstrous. I sat on the boat for awhile and watched. It took me a little to build up enough confidence to jump in. I tried to be patient and smart and just wait for the right one. I got a fairly good wave and I was stoked so I took a boat back to the beach and recharged for the afternoon. The surf calmed down a bit and the sun came out so I was more motivated to try and get a really good one. I was feeling confident when I took off on this medium one and pulled in. I was too deep and wiped out. I didn’t penetrate the wave, I got sucked up and over and my board smacked me really hard in the back of my head, my leash came off my ankle and I lost my board. I came up, felt my head and saw blood on my hand. I sort of freaked out but everyone was there and took care of me. Laura even jumped in the water to save me (love you Laura!) I went to the hospital and got two stiches! That was my first kinda gnarly surfing injury. I feel pretty hard core now haha.

Today the waves were solid six feet with a couple eight foot sets. We lucked out and it was sunny all day. The weather on Phonpei is very strange. One moment it might be pouring and the next blazing sun, but it is rainy and overcast most of the time. We stayed out all day, it was pretty crazy. It is about a ten to fifteen minute boat ride from the camp we are staying at to the surf break. I would surf and then paddle back to the boat when I was tired. There I watched the waves, sipped coconuts (best coconuts in the world just fyi), then paddled back out for another sesh when I felt like it. It was really entertaining to watch because both the guys and girls were charging. I was really impressed by the level the girls were surfing at. The waves were big, barreling, and powerful and they were going for it. On low tide the inside section was dry reef and pretty gnarly. People say it is like Teaupo in Tahiti but reversed. I was so tired by the end of the day that I ate an energy bar and crashed as soon as we got back to the bungalow.

It is 6:52 in the morning and I have been up for two hours now. I did some homework, stretches, ate a breakfast bar, brushed my teeth, waxed my board, listened to music and visualized. I am waiting for everyone to get up so we can go surfing. I am on the beautiful island of Pohnpei in Micronesia at the moment chasing a swell with brother, Dino, Kenworthy, Aaron and Dusty (Dusty gets here later today). Yesterday the waves were pretty small but we surfed out at the spot, P-pass, for several hours. I got so fried even tho I put loads of sunscreen on. In the afternoon we jumped off a waterfall. It was amazing! The waterfall had to be at least 25 feet, pretty nutts. Well I am going to try and get everyone mobilized. The swell arrives today and I want to be one of the first boats out there. Cross your fingers that there are more waves today=)

There definitely were more waves today. Dusty arrived around midday as well as Laura, Sally and Steph. It was nice to finally have some girls around. Steph got one of the best barrels of the day, it was so sick. I took the biggest set of the day straight on my head and almost drowned haha. I was a little rattled but I survived=) It’s supposed to be bigger tomorrow, oh boi.