Archive for June, 2010

The day after graduation I was on a plane to Tahiti. I spent four days with Raimana learning and surfing the different reefs outside his house by Teahupoo. The second day was pretty good size, about six to eight feet. Raimana taught me how to do step-offs for the first time which is when you sit on the back of the ski and jump onto the wave. I was super nervous when we pulled up to the spot in our boat. Teahupoo has so much hype that I was freaking out even before I paddled out. Raimana took good care of me and kept telling me “Have faith babe. Just breathe. You can do this. Love you babe,” it was very comforting. On my first wave I was so nervous and had no idea what I was doing and when Raimana told me to go I totally slipped and almost went over the falls! Thank goodness I didn’t, haha. Unfortunately I got pretty sick while I was down there and was later diagnosed with a mild case of tonsilitas. I had the fever, chills and everything. I met Bethany down there. That crazy woman was charging and so inspiring. She kept me company when I was lying in bed sick:) I love you Bethany. Right when we were ready to go home the airport went on strike and we were stuck for four extra days. I was kind of bummed just because I wasn’t feeling that well but there are worst places I could’ve been stuck right?

The surf has been pretty fun at home. Nothing too spectacular, but small and playful. I have been surfing Kewalos, Bowls and Rennicks—the usual. I got a couple new boards and my dad is having fun painting them. Can’t wait to show them off because they are looking pretty cool. I put a hole in my magic stick yesterday morning when I was surfing Rennicks on low tide, not too smart.
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On Friday night I had my grad party. It was unexpectedly massive. I love a good dance party, and all my friends and I boogied the night away ‘til one the next morning. I’ve always wanted a dance party of my own, so this was a dream come true. Some of my friends started dance battles which was crazy cool.
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