Archive for September, 2010

So I am home and it is just not the same. It is finally starting to soak in that everyone is gone and I am here holding down the fort by myself. It is funny that the whole summer I have been busy travelling and I am home for the first time and no one is here. Home is where the people you love are. All my friends have left for school and it’s been a tough transition. I have way more time to think and more often than not about the negatives, what I don’t have, the people that aren’t here. I should be focusing on what I do have, the here, the now, the positives. Change is tough. It has to be embraced. I have shed a few tears these past couple weeks just because I feel lost and am trying to find my way again. The last half a year has been crazy with graduating, the tour, becoming an adult. Everything has been full speed ahead and now that things have slowed down it is weird. It is nice to be on a break and breathe but when you are so used to something and then don’t have it anymore it is an adjustment. It is great having the opportunity to finally invest more time in surfing and training but there are only so many hours in a day that you can do that. I have been writing and reading more which is good. The surf has been really fun on both the south and north so that has allowed for a lot of improvement. I was listening to TV the other day and the one thing that caught my attention was the idea that change is the one thing that is constant in our lives. Change is always happening and it is just apart of life. Sometimes things are so good and so wonderful that I don’t want them to change but I have to have faith. We just have to put one foot in front of the other and let the game of life play out knowing we did the best we could.

Guess what?! Eminem and Jay-Z are officially my new two favorite music artists! Haha. I was lucky enough to get tickets to their concert at the Yankee stadium. It was absolutely amazing and exciting and for a first concert experience I don’t think you could beat it. They had some awesome guests too. 50 cent, G-unit, Kanye, Beyonce, Mary-J,are a few of the others that came on stage. The stadium was huge. It easily fit fifty thousand people and it was absolutely breathtaking seeing everyone move to the music all at once. Earlier on in the day Maia and I drove around the city doing a media tour. It was really neat to see the offices of Teen Vogue, Seventeen, Shape, ESPN, etc. Before I left we went to little Italy and enjoyed a nice dinner under a Christmas tree light canopy. Super sweet end to a fantastic week in NYC. Now it’s back to reality:)

I am in NYC babbyyyyyy!!! This is my first time to the east coast and there is so much to see and do. I spent the first few days of my trip in Long Beach. Unfortunately the surf was really small but I got to cruise with and meet some of the girl surfers here and even judge a few heats of the UnSound Pro going on. I jumped in the water in just a bathing suit and caught a few waves but it was absolutely freezing! I should have known better:) I never thought I would be surfing in New York ever but I can check it off the list now. I am actually here with RedBull doing a project with the top eight east coast girl surfers. We drove up to Montauk in hopes of finding better waves but it was pretty much dead flat. We had fun tho. Took out the ski and attempted to do tow-ats. All the girls are really cool and it was great getting to know them and hearing their stories. They told me how they have to wear booties, gloves and hoods in the winter, it sometimes snows and they have to wait for storms to get waves. I definitely have a new appreciation for east coast surfing especially the girls over here. I am now in the city for a few days. It is crazy! I went into town, shopped in Soho and then took a taxi to Time Square. It was breathtaking in a different kind of way. It was so bright that it could have been daytime last night. I miss the beach and surfing but am loving this new experience. Still have some pretty fun things on the agenda and can’t wait to tell you about them! YAY! Livin’ it up:)

Drum roll please…I passed my road test and got my license!! It was quite nerve racking. I was in the waiting room at the DMV pacing back and forth for a good hour and a half before my name was called to take the test. I only got my permit three days earlier so I hadn’t had much time to practice and my confidence was pretty non-existent. Fortunately for me the guy was really nice and actually helped me drive, shhh, don’t tell anyone;) I got twelve points marked off out of a possible fifteen that you are allowed to miss. YAY! Now that I have my new wings I have been driving everywhere and I absolutely love it. I took my new jet ski out for a spin the other day. I even had my boyfriend jump on the back and got him a little sea sick. I still have to work on my jet ski driving skills. I took my boyfriend to the airport yesterday because he left for school. It was really hard to say goodbye but I can’t help but smile because we have had some wonderful memories together and I feel really lucky to have him in my life. And plus this isn’t goodbye goodbye just goodbye for now, see you later, chao, have fun, see you later;) Before he left we spent the week doing the most random, spontaneous things. We pied each other in the face, he chose banana cream and I got pumpkin. We had some epic pillow fights and unforgettable nights lying beneath the stars, talking and giggling about life:) I couldn’t ask for a better last week with him.

Guess what?! I have officially been on this Earth for eighteen fabulous years! My birthday day was perfect. I got to spend it with the people I love doing things that I love. In the morning my dad and I went surfing together at Kewalos. As usual it was the perfect way to start off my day. After that my boyfriend and I went to the Humane Society and looked at dogs and cats. I know, super random but we drove by the place and spontaneously wanted to so we did. The rest of the day we spent watching movies and I took a nice long nap. It was simple and relaxing. Finally I finished it off with good food and good company at my house in the evening. I feel so lucky for all that I have and for the beautiful life I have been blessed with living.Thanks everyone for making my day a special one:)