Posts from the ‘A Day in the Life’ Category

This is a paper I wrote for school but thought was worth sharing with you. Hope you like it:)
“When two such people encounter each other, and their eyes meet, the past and the future become unimportant. There is only that moment, and the incredible certainty that everything under the sun has been written by one hand only. It is the hand that evokes love, and creates a twin soul for every person in the world. Without such love, one’s dreams would have no meaning” (The Alchemist, 93). Our life’s mission is to love and be loved. That is what makes the world go round, what motivates us and improves us. We are driven by our love for something or someone. It is what lights the flame and sustains the fire within us on our journey to fulfill our personal legend.
This passage from The Alchemist by Paulo Coelho led me to ask several questions. Is there such a thing as love at first sight? When will I fall in love? How will I know if he is the one? Is there really someone out there for everyone? If there is a “twin soul for every person in the world,” then why are some people alone forever? Are they really alone? Does God choose our soul mate? What is a soul mate? Can your soul mate be something not someone? Does everything have a soul? Do you have to have a soul to love? What is love?
I am about to embark on my own life journey. Ever since I was little I wanted to be the best surfer in the world and my time has finally come to contend for a world title. I have been training, both mentally and physically, to best prepare myself for the start of the tour and it hasn’t been easy. About a month ago I was struggling with myself. I was stuck at a threshold, wondering if I really wanted to go thru with this and put everything I have into something that is not definite. There was a period of frustration and negativity because I wasn’t following my heart, I was fighting it. My love for surfing and the ocean runs deeper than anything but my fear of failing was holding me back. I was really able to relate to the story of The Alchemist in this way. There was a point in his journey that Santiago didn’t want to continue and find the treasure because he was afraid of dying in the desert. The alchemist said to him, “‘That makes sense. Naturally it’s (your heart) afraid that, in pursuing your dream, you might lose everything you’ve won. If a person is living out his personal legend, he knows everything he needs to know. There is only one thing that makes a dream impossible to achieve: the fear of failure’” (141). When I finally embraced the challenges and possible failures to come, I was able to free myself from my fears and move forward with a positive, open mind and attitude. It took me awhile to come to that conclusion but I now feel more in touch with myself and what my heart desires. I have been much more optimistic and things have started to fall into place. As the King said to Santiago, “‘When you want something, all the universe conspires in helping you achieve it’” (40).
However despite how much you love and want something sometimes it just doesn’t go your way and it hurts really bad. I lost today in my round three heat against 2003 world champion Sophia Mulonavich from Peru. I just fell out of rhythm with the ocean and I couldn’t catch a wave that allowed for me to really perform and get the score I needed to advance. Before the heat I had my mind in the right place, I wasn’t thinking about the nerves. I love performing and I just wanted to have fun and put on a show for the people on the beach. When I lost I broke down in tears and cried. It is devastating because when you love and want and work so hard for something and you come up short you start to question yourself and the journey. What could have I done better? Where did I go wrong? What pieces of the puzzle did I leave out? Why did this happen?
Doubt enters my mind. I have started off the year with an equal ninth and am currently seated last on tour. I am trying to be a full time high school senior and professional surfer at the same time. I might have to miss two events due to graduation and I have no room to mess up. Unfortunately this is a throw away result already and I am only allowed two. So where do I go from here? Initially I feel defeated and want to give up and feel sorry for myself, but I pick myself up and keep going because I love what I do and embrace the journey. These challenges are like brick walls. They aren’t there to keep me from achieving my goals but are there to test and see how much I want it. If I want it bad enough I will find a way. My love for the sport, the ocean and the people around me will continue to push me towards my final destination.

“There is only one thing that makes a dream impossible to achieve: the fear of failure.”

-Sorry I haven’t written in a few weeks. Let’s get caught up. I met with Lisa Stewart, the nutritionist I was telling you about. She is really sweet and easy to talk to. Our first meeting was just an introduction. We discussed my goals, what I have done in the past, and what she can help me with. One of the most interesting things that we talked about was the “ultimate athlete diagram.” She drew a triangle and in the middle she wrote, the ultimate athlete. On the left side she wrote, physical, the right side, mental, and at the base, nutrition. Simply put, these factors are what make up a strong, balanced athlete. For so long I have just been working hard on improving and maintaining my physical and mental health, and not putting as much effort into nutrition as I should. As my dad says, everything is tied together, every piece is important to the puzzle. You have to eat right so that you can perform at your physical and mental best. You have to have the right mental approach and discipline to eat right and push yourself in workouts. I want to make sure all sides of my triangle are addressed and taken care of before I leave for Oz. That way I will have no questions left unanswered and will have nothing to second guess when I am there. Our second meeting we took a metabolic typing test. This test is used to figure out what kinds of foods will best fuel your unique, individual body. It was an extensive questionnaire that took about an hour and a half to complete. I can’t wait to find out the results…

-Things have not been as frustrating lately because I am really trying to find the positives in things. Even if a practice wasn’t how I wanted it to be and my dad says something that I don’t necessarily want to hear, I try to think about why he is telling me that and how it will help me become a better surfer. School has been good. Being a second semester senior ROCKS! There is less academic pressure and more time to cruise with friends. I am finally venturing from my silent zone hang out and am socializing. I am feeling good and can’t seem to stop smiling.

-I have finally gotten the opportunity this past week to try out and dial in some new Mayhem boards from Matt Biolas with the south swell. I took out a 5’9” to Lighthouse the other morning before school and loved it. This morning I tried a 5’3” rocket and 5’4” squashet out at Rennicks and I am styked on both (styked = stoked + syked; definition: super excited; origin: Luke:). My dad is now drawing all over them with paint pens and I can’t wait to see the finished product.

-Yesterday Pancho came into town and we ran some mock heats together. I knew going into it I was the underdog and was most likely going to lose. I wanted to try to win at least one against him so as an incentive, Pancho agreed to wash Stouter’s car (the filmer) in a Speedo at Sunset if I did. It was a great learning experience for me. I definitely felt a little bit of pressure and was sort of over surfing some sections because of it. After we debriefed and talked about different heat strategies and tactics that I can work on which should be fun. I am pretty sure Pancho won all three heats so instead I have to wash his car the next time I am on the north shore. Good news: Pancho’s daughter had her surgery earlier this week and is recovering well. Continue to send her your prayers and “posi-vibes.”

-Oh, guess what tomorrow is? Valentine’s Day!! Yippee… I just so happen to have a special someone this year so I am actually looking forward to this lame holiday, haha just kidding. Hope you all have a fantabulous day filled with love and happiness…

Honesty is the best policy.

Love makes the world go round <3