Hey guys… sorry I have been so MIA. After the US Open finished I was at home cruising for three weeks, catching up with family and friends. I got to go to a Paramore concert VIP style baby. It was awesome. The best part was that I got to take a few members of the band surfing and jet-skiing. They are some of the coolest people I have ever met and it was so inspiring to listen to their stories and experiences. I turned the big 1-9 on the twenty seventh of August. Had a nice BBQ at the beach with some of my favorite people (the Browning clan was in town). Best way to start my last year as a teenager. The huge Teahupoo swell hit Oahu’s south shore a few days later and I was able to take my ski out and search for some uncrowded waves. Had so much fun adventuring, pulling up to random spots and trying to surf it. I followed the swell to Mexico with Bethany Hamilton and Koa Smith and scored some right hand point break perfection. All day every day for four days straight we were at the beach. By the end my back was peeling, lips cracked, rash and bug bites all over my body. It’s okay… totally worth it;) Now I am in Cali for the next ten days surfing with Beschen, he is teaching me a few things. It’s been a blast filming and reviewing footage with him, looking at body positioning and trying to improve different things. I don’t have a ticket home yet so I have no idea where I am off to next. Wherever the win blows me I guess.
Well I have started and finished Physical Therapy! Three sessions in and I was cleared. Yipee! I definitely don’t think I would have made the six weeks recommended by my first doctor. I was losing my mind after a week. Luckily everything was not as bad as they first thought. Sure feels good to be back in the water. Had my first house party the other night and… it was a success. I think everyone had a good time. Good food, good company, good conversation, lots of laughs = perfect evening. My little sister started her freshman year at Kamehameha. Dad and I dropped her off to her first day of school. She’s all grown up. I remember my freshman year. So exciting. New part of campus, uniforms, lockers, block scheduling, cute older boys;) It’s fun to be doing it all over again with her. First high school dance this week! Already worrying about what she is going to wear. I am on the countdown to my birthday… five days until the big 1-9! Can’t believe another year has just flown by. Trying my best to live in the moment and soak it all in. Life is too short. Spend it with the people you love and love them every day like it was your last. Really looking forward to my early birthday present wednesday night: Paramore concert! Should be fun. Other than that just taking it easy, enjoying being home and cruising with my friends before they have to leave for school again. Summer fun:)
The US Open is officially over! This past week I have been going a million miles a minute, from competing to press obligations, autograph signings, interviews, etc. It feels good to finally be able to breathe and slow down. Walk the Walk was absolutely fantastic. Five different high schools were given Converse, Nike and Hurley product to make a fashion skit. We judged them on creativity, product display, and the overall vibe of their performance. It was a pretty star studded judging panel I must say. I sat amongst Melissa Miller, Paul Rodriguez, Bob Hurley, Rob Machado, Vanessa Hudgens, just to name a few. San Diego high ended up winning top honors and twenty five grand for their school. Congrats! The comp finished average for me. I ended up bowing out in the semis. A little bit of a let down as I would have loved to have made the last final of the year. Even tho a world title wasn’t on the line at this event I still wanted to perform at my best and win. I don’t like losing but it is these moments that make us better, stronger and motivate us to greatness. I tweaked my shoulder a in my quarter final heat so I am a little handicap at the moment. Hoping it gets better quick because I hate the immobility. Looks like I will be heading home on Tuesday! Seriously can’t wait:)
So I am in the middle of all the chaos at the moment. It is only half way thru the week and the beach is packed with people. Sometimes it is hard to concentrate but I just throw on my big Bose headphones and zone out. I am loving the new Colbie Calliat CD. Had a couple heats already and advanced to the quarters on Saturday. I have a few days off to cruise and can hopefully sneak away to Lowers. The surf has been pretty average but trying to make the most of it. The water has been pretty chilly but I got some new bright yellow wetsuits to keep me warm. It is such a happy and vibrant color it really adds the pizazz, thanks Buell:) We had a Nike Retail party this evening, got to meet and mingle with some cool people. Yesterday I had dinner with my Nike family to celebrate the title and it was really special. Everyone stood up and gave a toast, it really meant a lot to me. They pimped me out with a super cool watch. It didn’t make sense at first but then it clicked… “Take the Time” Duh! What else has been going on? Just chilling with my peeps. The US Open really brings everyone together and it’s nice to see faces that I haven’t seen in a while. Tomorrow I get to be a guest judge at the Walk to Walk fashion show on the beach. So psyched altho fashion is definitely not my area of expertise haha and the Sounds are going to be rocking out. I will give another update soon xo
