So much has happened since the last time I wrote. I don't even know where to start. I had an awesome trip to South Africa with Luke and my friend, Greg Browning (he is also a very talented filmer:) I had a little bit of a self implode in the event, haha. It's really not that funny. The waves were absolutely pumping on finals day! I was so upset after I lost, that I walked and walked and walked for a few miles down the point in my wetsuit. I turned around because I was freezing otherwise I probably would have kept walking aimlessly. It was aggravating that the waves were perfect and I took myself out of the opportunity to surf again in those conditions. I did realize however after walking the whole point that the waves were pumping past the contest so I paddled out, surfed out my frustration and put a smile back on my face.
Before the contest started, we spent a few days in Capetown with Frank Soloman. It was pretty rainy and stormy while we were there but it was still beautiful and Frank showed us a great time. I loved the landscape and how all the houses were built into the mountains that met the sea. Frank started a Waves For Change program in Hout Bay that gives back to the kids from the local townships. He set up a crate on the beach with boards, wetsuits, and organized food for everyone. Taking part in their surf day was a highlight of our trip. Like in Brazil, there seems to be a huge discrepancy between the standards of living in Africa. There are people really well off that live in beautiful big houses and then not too far away people living in houses made of tin and card board. I am so grateful for the opportunity to travel and gain perspective and appreciation from these kinds of experiences.
We road tripped the coast to JBay and saw some penguins on the way. The swell was non existent for a week so we got to check off all the things we wanted to do. Luke did the crazy bungee jump off the bridge. I walked the bridge! Drove the coast and founds some little waves to wiggle on and stay loose. We spent a night at a game reserve. Saw giraffes, elephants, zebras, lions and even the rare, leopard!! Getting up close and personal with those animals in their natural habitat was such a treat. Made friends with JBay locals, Duncan Scott and Sean Holmes. Both were sweet enough to spend time with me and show me the lineups. We also did lots of napping, eating good food and dancing in the car.
Fast forward to present day.... There are some really fun waves at home today and I'm getting a bit anxious to get in the water so I am going to leave you here for now. I will work on an update of my California adventures and get back to you all soon. Hope you are enjoying summer!!
Thanks for checking in. Lots of love,