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Giving Back, Getting Moore

I'm so glad it's a new week. Not that the last one was bad, but there was no shortage of family drama and quite frankly I'm exhausted. Everyone took it to a level 10. Totally unnecessary because there was no real resolve and we just wasted a lot of time and energy being idiots!

Family. Can't live with them. Can't live without them. Just joking. Besides the little midweek emotional setback, it felt so good to be back with the ones I love. Nothing better than being surrounded with people that just get you and having relationships that are effortless. I also really enjoyed being back on somewhat of a normal routine of surfing, training, napping and yoga-ing for a few days.

Routine never lasts too long in my life. The Hurley Surf Club mini whirlwind tour started Friday afternoon at my home spot, Kewalos. Around twenty or so little lady ripper shredders showed up excited and eager to learn and improve. The stoke level was high and girl power radiating strong! We surfed together for about an hour while someone filmed our waves from the beach. Then the Hurley Hawaii team quickly transferred the clips to an iPad and we were able to watch and review footage immediately on the big TV screen in the tricked out HSC mobile. There was a wide range of talent, from girls just starting out to some that are doing really well in the amateurs. I was really impressed at how supportive the girls were of one another and how attentive they were during the whole coaching session.

That evening I jumped on a plane to New York City for a Nike Run/Yoga event and a HSC event in Long Beach. The run started at NikeTown in Soho and finished a mile away at a yoga studio. We were guided through a short flow and then Nike Golf athlete, Cheyenne Woods and I, got to talk to the group of women about what Nike's Air Society is and what it means to us. Air Society is a group of creative, innovative, empowered women each driven by their own unique force. What drives you? What is that invisible force or "air" that keeps you pushing forward? For some, it is the support of family and friends. Others, the fear of being stagnant or the drive to be as good as the boys. It could be a combination of many things. My air is constantly changing. Especially now, I'm finding out that the things that motivated me before don't motivate me the same way now. The biggest epiphany I've had recently is that sometimes motivation doesn't come naturally and you have to make it for yourself. Instead of waiting for something to happen, start moving. For me, that's waking up early. Writing down goals. Eating clean. Meditating. Doing all the little things that empower me and give me confidence.

The following afternoon, we drove to Long Beach for another HSC event. I was blown away by how many girls showed up. There were girls from the city, girls that drove over from Jersey and a few visiting from Puerto Rico that extended their trip just to take part in the fun. Waves were surprisingly decent and everyone was able to catch a few for later video review. It was really cool to see so many young girls getting in the water, pushing themselves, embracing the challenge, having fun, and being confident in their own skin. I have to admit if I grew up on the East coast I might not have been a surfer. The effort in getting to the beach and facing the elements especially in the winter would have been too much for me to handle.

Back in Brooklyn that evening, Hurley hosted a talk story with me at Nighthawk theater. I had a chance to share my journey from the beginning, the ups, downs and in betweens. Where my head space is at now and what my goals are for the future. Everything flowed really well. The only moment of the night that I had a slight brain fart was when asked about giving back.

"Why do you give back?"

I've never really thought about having to put the reason into words. It's just a feeling that it's the right thing to do I guess. And I believe loving on others and connecting with others is ultimately what life is all about. My dad always stressed growing up how blessed I am to be living this life. That my life wouldn't be possible without all the people that weave in and out of my life, loving and supporting me in one way or another. I have the opportunity, as do so many of you, to continue that positive ripple effect and be that person for someone else. We can all do our part in helping someone achieve their dreams or make their life a little bit brighter. I really believe if we all just took more time for one another, this world would be such a better place. As a bonus, giving back makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside.

Talking about an easy way to make a big difference, you can donate to an organization near and dear to my heart, AccesSurf, that empowers people with physical and cognitive disabilities through accessible water programs. If you can make the time and volunteer to help out with a beach day that would be even better. The smiles and stoke you will witness are priceless. Click HERE for more info...


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