What can I say? Today's result stings... I'm sitting in my room trying to process the events. I'm my harshest critic. I spend way too much time over thinking and over analyzing every little thing and that usually takes me to a pretty dark place. One of the quotes I've read recently is: "You can't keep doing the same things and expect a different result." So... instead of choosing negativity and questioning everything like I've done the past six events, I'm going to choose gratitude.
Let me start off by saying that was a pretty epic heat. I'm thankful for the opportunity to surf one of my favorite waves with only one other person out. Thankful for the challenge, for the game, the battle. And the waves were firing! I am extremely thankful to be able to do something that I love everyday and share my passion with people. Surfing brings me so much joy. Feeling the power of a wave beneath my feet, being able to put all my strength into a turn, giving everything I have to a moment and getting lost in it. The freedom to self express is a true gift.
I'm thankful for all the incredible people that love and support me. Mitch, changed his flight home to Australia just to watch me surf and cheer me on. Brandon and Lei, Cj, Ashley, Pat, Bob... All my family at home glued to the TV. Thank you to everyone who sent me good vibes and that continue to believe in me no matter what. I really felt the positive energy this week. Ana, Lisa, Erin, The Kenworthy family. I am thankful for my dad and his commitment to this roller coaster of a journey. And my fiance, Luke, for his steady presence and unconditional love.
I am thankful for all the little things that make a big difference. My warm wetsuit, incredible surf boards, my headphones, my music. I am thankful for the contest site and all the people that make these surfing events possible. I've spent a lot of time this year dreading the contest zone. Being overwhelmed by the people, pressures and expectations that surround it. I was in and out of the set up as quick as possible. This past week, I took a moment to soak it all in. I spent time talking to the friends that make this tour so special. I remember the first time we ever had locker rooms. How excited I was! It's easy to take those things for granted. I am so thankful to have my name on a jersey and a number that represents me.
The past two weeks have been so much fun. Surfing, playing, eating good food, spending time with family, celebrating my Grandma's 80th, seeing my sister, surfing Kelly's wave pool, bbq-ing, getting my nails done with a good friend, snuggling with the Kenworthys, adventuring Laguna... the list goes on. The memories made always make these trips more than worth it.
I am proud of the way I surfed today. I went in with a clear mind, happy and excited. The best mental state I have had in awhile for competition. I am proud of all the little things I did right to get me here today. The time spent in the water, the training, the journaling, the positive self talk, the little daily sacrifices. I'm really looking forward to the next couple weeks, enjoying the ride and embracing the challenges. For now, I am exactly where I am supposed to be. The universe and the man upstairs has a plan, just need to have faith.